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6/F, Bellagio Hotel 188 Bei Suzhou Lu, near Zhapu Lu 北苏州路188号6楼, 近乍浦路

The marquee restaurant from the Shanghai Bellagio, Lago is modern Italian fine dining from acclaimed Spanish chef Julian Serrano, celebrated for putting traditional Continental cuisine through his own idiosyncratic, bubbly, molecular prism. It's very much the sister restaurant to the one in Las Vegas and utilizes a similar pastels-and-plush color scheme. Sort of art deco-y light fixtures. Sort of '70s California. Sort of '90s New York. It's lounge-y. It's got an entry corridor that looks wrested from a nightclub, and a terrace overlooking the Suzhou Creek. The food is excellent. "Small Plates. Bold Flavors." is the tagline. A two-page menu featuring mod'ed out Italian staples -- Pastas, Risottos, Antipasto, Seafood, Mains, Crostino Bar, and Pizzas -- taken as starting points for the chef's original compositions, all deployed as sharable dishes, tapas style.

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